Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
and yet my experience is the exact opposite.
Hence, your signature
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@TimeBandit said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
and yet my experience is the exact opposite.
Hence, your signature
I should really figure out which Earth-(\d+) I live on.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Vixen My build plate is borosilicate glass (Pyrex).
huh.....
that should have good adhesion....
crazy question.... have you tried cleaning all that gluestick off with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol andtrying hitting the bed with simple hairspray? that's supposedly got better results with PLA than gluestick...
or, you could try printing with a brim. that will give you bigger surface area to bond to the build plate with but be easily broken off afterwards.
or..... well since you have good results with ABS and presumably don't bind the Styrene and Butadiene fumes..... you could keep printing with that. probably be less hassle then experimenting with print settings, speeds, feeds, hydraulic fracking pressure, and other oddities of FDM printing trying to get good ABS prints more reliably.... sure ABS takes more electricity to print than PLA, but if you can do one print of ABS or four attempts at PLA.... well ABS turns out faster and cheaper......
or you could tell me to shutup...... i tend to ramble when talking about one of my favorite subjects
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@Vixen I occasionally clean off the build plate when the glue stick gets too built-up. Actually, my current build plate is brand-new, since the old one chipped on me. I've never tried hairspray. I print with a 4-layer raft.
I almost exclusively rely on ABS. The price is the same, it prints much better on my Earth-(\d+), and the final part is significantly stronger. The only reason I used PLA on this was that I need to bake the plastic out of the plaster mold, and PLA has a much lower melting point so it should be far easier to melt out.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Vixen I occasionally clean off the build plate when the glue stick gets too built-up. Actually, my current build plate is brand-new, since the old one chipped on me. I've never tried hairspray. I print with a 4-layer raft.
I almost exclusively rely on ABS. The price is the same, it prints much better on my Earth-(\d+), and the final part is significantly stronger. The only reason I used PLA on this was that I need to bake the plastic out of the plaster mold, and PLA has a much lower melting point so it should be far easier to melt out.
hm.... maybe the raft is the problem? i've never needed a raft on a glass build plate, maybe a brim for small parts but not a raft. might be worth a shot?
or like you said just use ABS because it works and you don't want to futz about with it.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I wanted to pre-heat it with a propane torch
With aluminum, going directly from oven to pouring might be sufficient. That's how it's done for centrifugal casting, except everything is a lot hotter, almost white-hot, and cools at something like 100°/minute while getting the mold into the casting machine and making sure the molten metal is hot enough to cast. (It should be 100–200° above the liquidus¹ temperature.) Of course, that's for high-melting metals like bronze or whatever, not low-melting metals like aluminum or pewter. Same principles apply, though; you want the metal somewhat above it's melting point and the mold somewhat below. Pure aluminum melts at 660°C (alloys a bit lower), which is considerably hotter than you can get the mold in a household oven, but if you turn the oven as high as it will go during the last hour or so of melting out the PLA (remove the molten PLA first), it may be good enough.
Just FYI, the way it's done for lost-wax casting other metals is to start by using a special, high-temperature plaster. The mold is put in the oven open side down at a low temperature, maybe 80°C to melt the wax and thoroughly dry the plaster, then flipped open side up and the oven temperature ramped up to the desired casting temperature, whatever that may happen to be, and held there at least until there is no gray carbon residue around the mold opening.
¹ An alloy doesn't have a single, distinct melting point. It starts to melt at the solidus temperature and is completely liquid at the liquidus temperature; in between, it's a slushy mixture of liquid and solid.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
just fine with no changes whatsover to the model or slicer settings.
Uh, aren't you supposed to tell it what type of plastic you're using?
If you're trying to print PLA while it's expecting ABS then no fucking wonder...Edit: Unless I'm
E_READING_COMPREHENSION_FAIL
and the same correct settings were successful on second run...
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@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
the same correct settings were successful on second run...
This. All I did was clear the build plate and click "Print" again.
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Insanity is doing the same thing twice and expecting different results.
IT is exactly the same, except you do get different results.
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3D Printing Update: Due to some fortuitous finds I am now up to four 3D printers. Two Ender3 Pros, a Longer LK4 Pro and my most recent acquisition was an AnyCubic Photon that I picked up for $50 and after my replacement stepper motor arrives tomorrow I can give it a go. Kind of excited about that one. I've never even seen UV resin 3D printing before.
Due to my normal MO of "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing" I of course also have several kilograms of assorted resins also set to be delivered tomorrow.
While searching for this thread I ran across another thread where someone (I think it was @error?) said in 2014 that 3D printing was cool but did not see any real household use for it. The other day the handle on our Crock Pot lid broke. I looked on Amazon and the price of a replacement handle was almost the same as a complete replacement lid. 10 minutes in Fusion 360 and 45 minutes of print time later I had a replacement handle complete with socket for the nut. It looks better than new.
While cleaning out the basement I came across an old vacuum that had a broken latch that held on the handle. It had been set to the side while I looked for a part (which ended up being no longer for sale) and forgotten. Roughly a half hour in Fusion 360, less than an hour of print time and the vacuum was repaired and then given to a friend because the only ABSI had open was Dillon Blue and it looked positively ridiculous on the vacuum with its gray and green color scheme. But it is fixed and if it ever breaks again I can print another.
I have found 3D printing to be massively useful for those little one-off repair jobs, in addition to all of the other things I use it for. For a while I was keeping two printers busy just printing Duplo train track sections for my four year old.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
While searching for this thread I ran across another thread where someone (I think it was @error?) said in 2014 that 3D printing was cool but did not see any real household use for it.
It was.
@error said in Front-page Comments Idea:
The only meaningful use I have ever had for 3d printing so far..
3D printing just sounds so awesome, but yeah, I'm at a loss for practical household applications.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
It looks better than new.
Did you sand it? From every example I've seen of 3D printing (mostly in videos) it doesn't come out ready for primetime
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@hungrier briefly sanded it, got bored, put it in a container with some acetone in it in a cup and let the acetone smooth it for me. It is one of the benefits of ABS versus PLA. Acetone vapors will smooth it right out.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
3D Printing Update: Due to some fortuitous finds I am now up to four 3D printers. Two Ender3 Pros, a Longer LK4 Pro and my most recent acquisition was an AnyCubic Photon that I picked up for $50 and after my replacement stepper motor arrives tomorrow I can give it a go. Kind of excited about that one. I've never even seen UV resin 3D printing before.
Due to my normal MO of "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing" I of course also have several kilograms of assorted resins also set to be delivered tomorrow.
While searching for this thread I ran across another thread where someone (I think it was @error?) said in 2014 that 3D printing was cool but did not see any real household use for it. The other day the handle on our Crock Pot lid broke. I looked on Amazon and the price of a replacement handle was almost the same as a complete replacement lid. 10 minutes in Fusion 360 and 45 minutes of print time later I had a replacement handle complete with socket for the nut. It looks better than new.
While cleaning out the basement I came across an old vacuum that had a broken latch that held on the handle. It had been set to the side while I looked for a part (which ended up being no longer for sale) and forgotten. Roughly a half hour in Fusion 360, less than an hour of print time and the vacuum was repaired and then given to a friend because the only ABSI had open was Dillon Blue and it looked positively ridiculous on the vacuum with its gray and green color scheme. But it is fixed and if it ever breaks again I can print another.
I have found 3D printing to be massively useful for those little one-off repair jobs, in addition to all of the other things I use it for. For a while I was keeping two printers busy just printing Duplo train track sections for my four year old.
How much do those replacements cost vs the printer? Those kind of repairs are awesome to be able to do if you're playing with a printer anyway, but still doesn't seem worth it just for the household stuff.
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@mikehurley said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
How much do those replacements cost vs the printer? Those kind of repairs are awesome to be able to do if you're playing with a printer anyway, but still doesn't seem worth it just for the household stuff.
Crock Pot lid handle, 2¢ vs ~$8? Vacuum handle latch, 2¢ vs cost of a new vacuum.
You're correct in that it makes a lot more sense if you are already playing around with one. But keep in mind that I initially started this because I bought a 3D printer at Black Friday prices ($180? I think?)in order to do a project with a nominal value of ~$1,000. For that particular use case I could buy all four printers over again and be basically even money.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
printing Duplo train track sections for my four year old.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
10 minutes in Fusion 360
Someone who can reasonably do stuff in a familiar-enough program, perhaps.
I'd probably be stuck trying to make a cylinder with a bend in it...
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@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
10 minutes in Fusion 360
Someone who can reasonably do stuff in a familiar-enough program, perhaps.
I'd probably be stuck trying to make a cylinder with a bend in it...
I don't know about Fusion 360, but I find OpenSCAD to be very easy to work with.
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@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
10 minutes in Fusion 360
Someone who can reasonably do stuff in a familiar-enough program, perhaps.
I'd probably be stuck trying to make a cylinder with a bend in it...
Fusion 360 isn't bad once you realize two things:
- Everything starts with a sketch and all sketches start on a plane
- It is all just math and geometry. Consider what's the best/easiest/quickest way to get the shape you want? Start with a too-big shape and subtract (extrude cut) from it, or start with a too small shape and add to it (regular extrude)?
That's pretty oversimplified, but once I got those two things it fell in to place pretty quickly. Then there's what @MrL mentioned, OpenSCAD and FreeCAD. OpenSCAD I found interesting for simprk projects because it's a scripting language that gets "compiled" to make your object. Knowing what I know of you I get the feeling that you could pick up OpenSCAD in no time. I had difficulties past a certain level of complexity of design. I bet that now I have learned how to do most everything in Fusion 360 I could probably go back to OpenSCAD and do better. But now Fusion 360 is my hammer and all designs look like nails.
And after typing all of that I just realized that may have been an obscure penis joke:
@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Someone who can reasonably do stuff in a familiar-enough program, perhaps.
I'd probably be stuck trying to make a cylinder with a bend in it...
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Sooooooooo, UV resin printing in the house.......
I have to admit, I've had better ideas in my life. Good God, they shouldn't sell that stuff to consumers.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Sooooooooo, UV resin printing in the house.......
I have to admit, I've had better ideas in my life. Good God, they shouldn't sell that stuff to consumers.
Is this about the amount of toxic chemicals you're dealing with or just the general mess it can make?
I watched this video a while ago and it did include a bunch of stuff they learned while making prints:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kHcsTG9QsM
Smell might potentially also be a thing, but it's impossible to estimate that when watching YouTube.
All in all the end result does seem incredibly detailed though, so for fidgetty parts it might seem like it might be worth some effort...
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@JBert said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Smell might potentially also be a thing
It is definitely a thing.
Normally I am not sensitive to such things, and usually such cautions are overstated, but the fumes definitely affect your respiratory system and I think they also triggered a migraine.
I'm thinking that the resin printer will be confined to the garage. Or maybe I will see if there is a local SuperFund site that I can go print at?
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@JBert said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
All in all the end result does seem incredibly detailed though, so for fidgetty parts it might seem like it might be worth some effort...
First print failed, but what completed before it came loose from the build platform is remarkably detailed and the dimensions are spot on. Within 0.01mm. Which is more than I can say for my FDM printers. Even with tuning I still have to use a print clearance parameter in my designs to accommodate the inaccuracies of the method. Although, the printer I upgraded the main board on is substantially more accurate than the box stock one. 0.10mm vs 0.20-0.28mm or so. It may not seem like much but I am prototyping a surgical fixture right now and that adds up to 0.40-0.56mm on a diameter so you have to clearance on both sides for through dimensions.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Normally I am not sensitive to such things, and usually such cautions are overstated, but the fumes definitely affect your respiratory system and I think they also triggered a migraine.
That's easy to fix. Just buy some PM2 masks from Amazon, and...
...oh.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
on a plane
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@Zerosquare said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
That's easy to fix. Just buy some PM2 masks from Amazon, and...
I have respirators (full and half face) with N99 cartridges along with charcoal filters, and I have SCBAs. I don't know if it is still valid but at one point I was certified for CSE in basically everything but a nuclear reactor.
Unless the entire family wants to wear such garb, it won't help and it's easier to just do it in the garage. :-P
But yeah, buying masks might be a bit of a problem right now.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
But yeah, buying masks might be a bit of a problem right now.
I wonder... if you can 3d print something for that...
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FYI:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35QjGBDAL2M
These are not medical-grade, standard warranty/disclaimer applies, but they may be better than nothing.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
These are not medical-grade, standard warranty/disclaimer applies, but they may be better than nothing.
Depends on what you're doing. Medical grade is only really necessary for people in the medical field because their exposure levels are so much higher than virtually everyone else. For most other people with only actually occasional exposure, simpler masks are fine and the 3D printed ones should be good. (For medical use the big difference is probably just better filters and better edge seals. And official certification.)
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@dkf sadly, certification hasn't gone away. They're still holding their "perfect or nothing" hill. Doesn't apply to self made things, but it's restricting the medical supply lines because they can't be imported if they don't meet US standards (mostly being made in certified factories).
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
FYI:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35QjGBDAL2M
These are not medical-grade, standard warranty/disclaimer applies, but they may be better than nothing.
I don't think this thing is printable, at least not on my printer. I've tried 5 times. As soon as the model starts widening up, layers don't stick and it quits extruding.
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@mott555 Have you added support properly for it?
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@Mason_Wheeler No, the file designer says support isn't necessary, and it shouldn't be with the orientation I'm using when printing. I guess it's just the TPU. I bet it would print fine in ABS, but then it won't be flexible enough to seal on your face.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I bet it would print fine in ABS, but then it won't be flexible enough to seal on your face.
You're just not fat enough.
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@MrL said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I bet it would print fine in ABS, but then it won't be flexible enough to seal on your face.
You're just not fat enough.
I accidentally lost 15 pounds this year, which definitely did not need to happen.
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@mott555 Well you should just have settled for a 3D printer model that didn't cost an arm.
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@remi I did not expect that turn of phrase.
It is somewhat dark though, so I hope @mott555 doesn't have to suffer any severed limbs...
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@JBert If I ever had more than four limbs, the loss must have occurred when I was too young to recall it.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Mason_Wheeler No, the file designer says support isn't necessary, and it shouldn't be with the orientation I'm using when printing. I guess it's just the TPU. I bet it would print fine in ABS, but then it won't be flexible enough to seal on your face.
Does the designer say to use TPU? You could print in PLA or PETG and use hot water or a heat gun to tweak the fit. ABS might be another possibility and acetone smoothing could help make it easier on the skin.
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@Polygeekery The designer says TPU for the main part, and ABS for the retainer clip. That way you can sterilize it in boiling water. Any other filament will not survive boiling.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Polygeekery The designer says TPU for the main part, and ABS for the retainer clip. That way you can sterilize it in boiling water. Any other filament will not survive boiling.
I'm not sure about that. You can print PLA from 180C up and TPU from 195C, not a huge difference. I think he wanted to say that you can sterilize all printed parts by boiling, with TPU the best pick because it's flexible - but he conflated those two talking points.
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@MrL PLA's glass transition temperature is around 60 - 65C, so boiling it would be bad. Plus I hate PLA, it's super brittle and I have a lot of print failures with it for some unfathomable reason (everyone says it's the easiest filament to print with, but in my experience it's been one of the worst).
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@MrL PLA's glass transition temperature is around 60 - 65C, so boiling it would be bad.
Ah, I didn't know that.
Plus I hate PLA, it's super brittle and I have a lot of print failures with it for some unfathomable reason (everyone says it's the easiest filament to print with, but in my experience it's been one of the worst).
That's strange. My PLA prints are not even close to brittle, sometimes I even have trouble removing all supports if I make too many. Only problems I had with it came from bad bed adhesion, but I solved it once and forever with BLTouch.
Shitty (old) PLA perhaps? The sample roll that came with my printer was atrocious.
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@mott555 the designer says TPU or ABS for the main part.
Masks has been tested with, and can be printed in either ABS or 95A TPU. Retainers should be printed in ABS for rigidity. The reason for ABS is to allow sterilization by a boiling water bath. TPU will conform to the face, and it will also withstand a boiling water bath for sterilization. Make sure you test a sample of the flexible you are using, there are a LOT of versions out there!
You can tweak the form after printing by heating the material and bending it to fit. Try it in ABS.
I came back in here to grab this design. I have three 3D printers (In FDM type printers), and have an option to pick up some more cheap, so I am going to start producing these. Going to run some test prints when I get back to the office.
I visited a client location today and one of the employees was wearing a similar design and others were remarking about how they wanted to get one. I figure it is easy enough for me to print up a few dozen. Print time looks like ~6 hours per. I should be able to make 9-12 per day with my current setup. The limiting factor for me would be that I don't think I have a whole lot of ABS, and I don't have any TPU and only one printer that is likely to reliably print it. But I do have extruders and hot ends that I can install on the others.
And now Amazon is prioritizing deliveries (totally understandable) so the estimated delivery date for any other filaments is 21 days from now. I talked to Amazon customer service and they said there is no way for them to override deliveries on a case by case basis. It is all algorithm based.
So I guess I print up what I can with what I have and hope that the delivery ends up here before the estimate. This client has gas sterilization, so even PLA wouldn't be a deal breaker overall. Better than nothing I suppose. And I have a heaping shitload of PLA on hand.
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@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
And now Amazon is prioritizing deliveries (totally understandable) so the estimated delivery date for any other filaments is 21 days from now.
Put in an order and see what happens. Turns out I have mice in my apartment, but I didn't know until I was working from home. I ordered some mousetraps, got told they wouldn't ship until the end of April due to priorities, and then they showed up 2 days later (today).
I'm starting to think there's an issue with the model. My print fails at the same point every time. I don't understand how the model would cause it to stop extruding, but it so reliably fails at the same point despite modifying slicer settings multiple times that I have to conclude there's an issue with the model and my printer.
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@mott555 said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I'm starting to think there's an issue with the model. My print fails at the same point every time. I don't understand how the model would cause it to stop extruding, but it so reliably fails at the same point despite modifying slicer settings multiple times that I have to conclude there's an issue with the model and my printer.
If so, I would wager on it being between the model and your printer. If it is up on Prusa I would assume that if there were a major issue with the model that it would cause lots of comments on there by now. I trust Prusa more than I do random shit from Thingiverse.
I've not printed flexibles very much but it is my understanding that they are very picky on speed and retraction settings. I assume you have looked for recommended TPU settings for your printer online?
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@Polygeekery I took my standard TPU settings and cut the print speed in half. It still fails in the same spot. I normally print TPU at 30 mm/sec, I dropped it to 15 mm/sec, and I'm not going to even try lower than that because I'd like the print to finish before I hit retirement age.
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@mott555 they print well in ABS and PETG. No issues at all. Well, at least not when I remember to change my slicer settings for the proper material and don't end up making brightly colored spaghetti. But that's hardly the fault of the model.
I've ordered a shit ton of ABS, PETG and TPU of what I could find in stock. I also made my initial estimates based on generic slicer settings as delivered by Cura out of the box. Slicing at home with an optimized profile I have it down to 6 hours for 2X masks and ~3 hours for four retainers. So I can print about 24 complete masks a day. Not bad. Of course, that's if I am home to start the next batch during the day. Which I can't be.
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22 masks printed so far.
@Polygeekery said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
So I can print about 24 complete masks a day. Not bad. Of course, that's if I am home to start the next batch during the day. Which I can't be.
And I'm not, so that how you end up with 22 masks in 3 days.
Pretty cool idea:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ftlhz0/i_was_asked_to_print_these_respirator_valves_to/
I'm not sure how he is managing that. My prints stick to the print bed way too well for that to work. Cool idea though.
I also saw another guy who had made his own wall mounted 3D printer that was designed to run with the print bed vertical. When you run a heated print bed with a glass build plate and have everything tuned so that the prints stick well to the bed without any assistance (glue stick, cheap hairspray, etc.) then as the bed cools the prints release freely. So he setup a continuous print profile that allowed a wait for the appropriate amount of cooldown in the G code before heating back up and going again. Below the printer was a bin to catch the finished parts.
I've tried glass build surfaces with no modifiers and when it works it works well. But a quick spritz of cheap hair spray (did you know that hair spray is just polymer dissolved in a solvent?) is cheap and quick insurance.
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So my hotend looked like a 600-pound bacon addict's arteries, which is why it kept stopping extrusion. Any wide spots in the filament failed to feed through. So I disassembled everything and I'm soaking parts in acetone and baking parts in the oven to get everything to melt out. I also ordered a complete spare hotend with the idea that I can just swap parts out and keep printing while cleaning up the other.