Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...
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@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
those are trivial to print
So you'll be posting about your problems with them in a few weeks?
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status: apparently Thingiverse got pwned. Yay.
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More information:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/q7xcrq/thingiverse_data_breach/That seems to indicate that the leaked database was a year old, so if you were several years behind this trend and only signed up after October 2020, you may be ok?
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@hungrier said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
only signed up after October 2020
How does 2017 sound?
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@Tsaukpaetra I would say you're probably still fine, unless you put your physical address and social number in your profile, or uploaded 3d models of your house keys
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@hungrier Unlike some other sites, Thingiverse doesn't require an account to download free models, so they don't have any info about me to leak (apart from IP address and other such stuff they can scrape from HTTP requests).
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@HardwareGeek I signed up in order to add things to favourites/"collections" (I did once or twice but never after that), as well as to upload one thing I designed, with plans to upload more models if I designed anything else that would be fit for public consumption. Maybe I still will, :who_nose:
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@hungrier said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
unless you put your physical address and social number in your profile, or uploaded 3d models of your house keys
Filed under: things that @Tsaukpaetra would totally do
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@Zerosquare said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@hungrier said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
unless you put your physical address and social number in your profile, or uploaded 3d models of your house keys
Filed under: things that @Tsaukpaetra
would totally dohas done and it's not hard to find
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@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Zerosquare said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@hungrier said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
unless you put your physical address and social number in your profile, or uploaded 3d models of your house keys
Filed under: things that @Tsaukpaetra
would totally dohas done and it's not hard to findTo use a swedish expression: I know where your mailbox lives.
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@Atazhaia said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Zerosquare said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@hungrier said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
unless you put your physical address and social number in your profile, or uploaded 3d models of your house keys
Filed under: things that @Tsaukpaetra
would totally dohas done and it's not hard to findTo use a swedish expression: I know where your mailbox lives.
My mailbox is the one with the ahegao face. 😊
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@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
ahegao
I considered googling that to find out what it is, but given the source, I probably don't want to know.
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@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@Tsaukpaetra said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
ahegao
I considered googling that to find out what it is, but given the source, I probably don't want to know.
I considered that you already know.
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I decided to print some of the Vulkan "mascots" for "office decoration". Funnily enough, probably one of the more complex models I've printed so far (most of my prints are far more "functional" = made from boxes, because those are the modelling primitive that
I've masteredI'm comfortable with).Backside (which was facing down in the print) looks a bit worse. Feels quite weighty, I probably went a bit overboard on the infill. (AA battery is for scale.)
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@cvi said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
AA battery is for scale
that doesn't help, how big is the battery compared to a banana?
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@Luhmann said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
how big is the battery compared to a banana?
The driver has a pager that is powered by a AA battery. That should give you an idea
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@Luhmann said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
that doesn't help, how big is the battery compared to a banana?
Well, one Banana-equivalent dose is about 0.1 microsieverts [J/kg]. An AA battery has an energy density of 0.6457 J/kg. Those two things have the same dimensions, so clearly we can compare them. That makes one AA battery = 6457000 bananas.
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@TimeBandit
Disqualified, curves not within regulations
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I have a need for some gears, really tiny gears. I can't find what I need on eBay. I can find some of, sorta, on Alibaba, but I'm not sure I really want to deal with Alibaba, and what I've found there is almost, but not exactly, what I need.
So, the obvious solution is printing some gears, but that raises a couple of major questions.
Ideally, I'd like to make them out of nylon or Delrin. (Really ideally, I'd like them to be brass or steel, but I can't print those, and I don't have the tools to machine them.) Nylon can be printed, but it's a difficult material to work with. Delrin can be printed, too, kinda, sort, just barely. Nylon needs to be printed very hot, and Delrin needs to be even hotter. Delrin doesn't like to stick to anything, including print beds, and it warps and curls. One tale I read, the guy used all kinds of print beds, including textured cloth (!), and the Delrin wouldn't even stick reliably to that. And to top it off, Delrin gives off formaldehyde fumes when you heat it. Nope!
Nylon isn't quite so bad, but I'd probably need to upgrade my son's printer from stock to an all-metal hot-end.
The gears I need are tiny, with super-fine pitch teeth, so surface finish is of critical importance. Even if I could get my son's Ender to print nylon filament, I think the surface finish would be inadequate.
So, resin print? Are there any resins with structural properties similar to nylon/Delrin? These are going to be subjected to very low torque, so teeth breaking shouldn't be a big issue, unless the resin is very brittle. Friction/abrasion resistance is probably more of a concern. Anybody know of suitable resins?
The other question is (or multiple questions) about designing the gears. FreeCAD will design exactly what I want — except I could simplify things if I could use worm gears. It will design the worm, itself, but not the worm gear (worm wheel) that meshes with the worm. It must be designed manually, and "detailed knowledge of the gear geometry must be available". I do not possess that knowledge; the internet probably does, but so far I have not been able to find it.
I found a set of OpenSCAD scripts called Gear Warehouse that will design the worm gear. (At least it purports to. It may not actually be any closer to the ideal shape than the helical involute gear FreeCAD says can be used as the starting point for the manual design. Proper worm gears have concave outer surfaces, but Gear Warehouse's have flat faces, like a normal involute gear.) However, Gear Warehouse has a couple of significant limitations. It won't generate gears with the fine pitch I need. (Gear tooth pitch is specified as the "module", which is the ratio of the number of teeth to the diameter. FreeCad allows specifying an arbitrary module, but Gear Warehouse is limited to certain presets, and the smallest is 0.5. I need something like 0.2 or less. 0.2M gears are available on Alibaba, but not with the number of teeth and shaft sizes I need.) The minimum face width is 5 mm, and I need 2 or 3 mm. And it only accepts integers (in mm) for face widths and shaft diameters. (I need 0.8 mm and 2.5 mm shafts.) They're scripts, so I'm sure changing these limitations is almost, if not actually, trivial, but so far I have about 15 minutes of experience with OpenSCAD's script language. Anybody know of another free CAD program that can design the worm gear properly, or have a non-free one and would be willing to plug a few numbers in and send me an output file?
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@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Nylon isn't quite so bad
I used to know someone who did printing with nylon. His comments were along the lines of it being a cheap material, requiring quite a lot higher temperatures, producing very good fine detail, and a lot of really-quite-unpleasant fumes. The end results that I saw had really good surface detail and apparently decent strength.
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@HardwareGeek Depending on volume/size, a 3rd party 3d printing shop might be an option. Larger ones frequently have a few fancy printers that can do SLS and similar.
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@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I have a need for some gears, really tiny gears.
Maybe you could buy some broken mechanical watches for their gears?
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@Zerosquare said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I have a need for some gears, really tiny gears.
Maybe you could buy some broken mechanical watches for their gears?
That's actually not a bad idea. My first thought was that I had overstated how tiny I need them to be; what I'm picturing in my head is bigger than that, but actual dimensions may actually be that small. And 1:60 speed reduction is certainly within the ballpark I'm looking for.
Depending on the step size of the stepper motors I just bought on eBay, I might not even need gears at all, or I might need a small reduction ratio to smooth out the steps.
A basic DC motor would be adequate, and simpler to drive; a control system based Mk1 eyeballs and knobs actuated by Mk1 fingers is all I really need, but all the non-stepper motors of suitable size seem to be intended for slot cars or the like, with operating speeds of 10k–50k RPM, and I'd need a ratio of 1:1000+. While a watch (with a second hand) should provide a ratio of 1:3600, I doubt watch gears designed for a speed of 1 RPM would like spinning at 50000 RPM. Thus, I seem to be stuck with the complexity of steppers. It does allow for the possibility of automating it someday, but that's well into YAGNI territory.
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@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
That's actually not a bad idea.
I just bought 10 broken watches on eBay for ~$4 each. That should get me plenty of gears for this project and a bunch of potential future stuff I might want to animate on my maybe-someday train layout. No specific ideas at this time, but if I have mechanical bits and pieces, I'll probably think of a way to use them.
Apparently these sorts of thing are popular in the steampunk art crowd. You can buy assorted parts by the pound, but there's no guarantee the gears will actually mesh and aren't bent. (Watch gears are pretty delicate.) Buying whole watch movements is more expensive, but at least all the parts are known to fit together.
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Damn. I hate it when a shitpost accidentally gaves useful advice
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I have a new toy. This finally arrived today. I haven't even unpacked it yet, because (theoretically) I'm doing stuff I get paid for.
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stainless steel rubik's cube
I wasn't entirely satisfied with the aluminum cube, so after thinking about the design for a while, I decided to make another one out of stainless steel. Just for fun, I thought I would make all the pieces using only manual machines. How hard could it be?As it turns out, it was quite a bit of type 2 fun. It sure was slow and repetitive work, but I'm pleased with the result. I was motivated to think about ways to be more efficient, like machining multiple pieces at once and using looser tolerances where allowable. The slow pace also allowed me to consider details of the design while making parts. I have never been a fan of taking things slowly, but this could be a good argument for it.
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@Dragoon quoted in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
type 2 fun
AKA
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@Dragoon said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
stainless steel rubik's cube
I wasn't entirely satisfied with the aluminum cube, so after thinking about the design for a while, I decided to make another one out of stainless steel. Just for fun, I thought I would make all the pieces using only manual machines. How hard could it be?As it turns out, it was quite a bit of type 2 fun. It sure was slow and repetitive work, but I'm pleased with the result. I was motivated to think about ways to be more efficient, like machining multiple pieces at once and using looser tolerances where allowable. The slow pace also allowed me to consider details of the design while making parts. I have never been a fan of taking things slowly, but this could be a good argument for it.
I want one with Lament Configuration pattern on the surface.
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@MrL said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Lament Configuration pattern on the surface.
Your request is granted. We await you.
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@Gribnit said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@MrL said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Lament Configuration pattern on the surface.
Your request is granted. We await you.
Pfff, you are supposed to come to me. Fuck that.
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@HardwareGeek said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
I have a new toy. This finally arrived today. I haven't even unpacked it yet, because (theoretically) I'm doing stuff I get paid for.
I finally unboxed it this evening. I haven't done a test print, yet, because I didn't have the resin in my workshop, and . I might shoo the warthog away later tonight or tomorrow. Or not; the warthog is strong.
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@HardwareGeek I pushed the out of the way, at least temporarily. Test print printing; about 2:15 to go.
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First test print; pre-sliced file provided by the manufacturer. Phone camera really doesn't want to focus that close, so you can't see how nice the surface detail is, but it's very nice. I think I'm going to like this printer.
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Apparently people would download cars...
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@boomzilla This was discussed on some of the 3d printing subreddits a few days ago. Supposedly, they're doing it to maintain their trademark, so e.g. "Honda Civic shifter knob" would get taken down because someone may confuse the name for something official made by Honda, but "Shifter knob (compatible with Honda Civic)" should still be fine
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@hungrier yeah, the trademark stuff makes sense. They have to defend it if they want to keep it.
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@hungrier said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
@boomzilla This was discussed on some of the 3d printing subreddits a few days ago. Supposedly, they're doing it to maintain their trademark, so e.g. "Honda Civic shifter knob" would get taken down because someone may confuse the name for something official made by Honda, but "Shifter knob (compatible with Honda Civic)" should still be fine
Louis Rossmann is obviously suspicious about this whole thing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSZE2rs54CM
While I think it's a bit of a hot take, he does have a point that if you're going to let a company get away with lawyering up and blocking a 3D model (which is somewhat akin to a blueprint of a part) that you're opening the door to turn the 3D printing space into an intelectual property minefield, and so a blocker to right-to-repair.
Obviously, there are things like design patents (which Louis might ignore here or might be ignorant about) and counterfeiting laws, but it's still a bad precedent for consumer 3D printing if there's no challenge.
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Heh, an upside down printer! Look at it go!
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@Dragoon said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Amazing how these sorts of struggling company mergers never wind up cutting expenses in the most expensive part of the SG&A budget
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@izzion 1.618... of them as has the gold, makes the rules.
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Well, . 30+ hours of printing wasted. Instead of
,
got
The other file printed ok, but I didn't allow for printing tolerance on the threads.
I could screw them together only maybe 30%. After cleaning up the male threads a bit with a tri-square needle file, I managed to force them, but broke it trying to take them apart again. Also, there was some minor support failure in the indicated area. Still usable; I wouldn't have reprinted just for that, but since I now have to anyway, that's another thing I can fix while I'm at it.
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Just tell people it's a piece of abstract art, and yes, it was totally supposed to look like that
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@Zerosquare It just occurred to me that no significant functionality is added by having this piece
as tall as it is. I could reduce the height to around the red line, which reduces the need for supports, as well as making it much easier to fit both tall parts into the print volume, thereby reducing the print time. Instead of printing each tall piece separately, requiring two 15-hour prints, I can print both tall pieces at the same time, with only the short parts in the other print run, which I'm guessing might be only about 4 hours, or so.
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@Zerosquare said in Today in Blakeyrat is always several years behind in every tech trend news...:
Just tell people it's a piece of abstract art, and yes, it was totally supposed to look like that
r/nofailedprints
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@HardwareGeek And reprint started...
Edit: In addition to reducing the height (width, as oriented for printing) of the one part and fixing the supports, I adjusted the thread diameters, +1% for the female threads and -1% for the male threads. For the M33 threads, that should be ~0.66 mm of clearance, if the printer was printing to accurate dimensions, but it's not, or I wouldn't need to make the adjustment. Is this enough? Is it too much? I'll find out tomorrow.
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@HardwareGeek What the heck is it supposed to be in the first place?
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