Internet of shit
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@hungrier said in Internet of shit:
@Mingan said in Internet of shit:
@TimeBandit said in Internet of shit:
Ex.: Electric car -> Voiture électrique
Voiturel?
In France they'd say "le electric car"
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@Luhmann said in Internet of shit:
@Gurth said in Internet of shit:
Any French word pronounced by
EnglishDutch peopleNo, they get the sounds wrong much of the time (especially the silent letters at the end),* but don’t usually have too much trouble with stress placement. English people tend to get the sounds and the stress wrong.
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@Gurth said in Internet of shit:
English people tend to get the sounds and the stress wrong.
No, we just use a Different Correct to the French.
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"The purpose is to help you discover new apps and contents for your TV."
we're running a pilot program to surface sponsored content
So.. ads.
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@levicki I don’t see how
Android TV is committed to optimizing and personalizing the entertainment experience at home.
is compatible with
a pilot program to surface sponsored content on the Android TV home screen.
but it makes me glad once again that I refrained from telling my Android TV my wifi password.
(Also, is “to surface” the currently fashionable word for “to bring”?)
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@Gurth said in Internet of shit:
(Also, is “to surface” the currently fashionable word for “to bring”?)
Not really, it's a common term for revealing something previously unknown, however given the amount of marketing buzzwank in the rest of that statement I can't really fault you for suspecting something untoward.
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@levicki said in Internet of shit:
for ads
That reminds me... Go find TV MAC address and ban it in the router.
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@Gurth said in Internet of shit:
@levicki I don’t see how
Android TV is committed to optimizing and personalizing the entertainment experience at home.
is compatible with
a pilot program to surface sponsored content on the Android TV home screen.
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@Gurth said in Internet of shit:
@levicki I don’t see how
Android TV is committed to optimizing and personalizing the entertainment experience at home.
is compatible with
a pilot program to surface sponsored content on the Android TV home screen.
but it makes me glad once again that I refrained from telling my Android TV my wifi password.
(Also, is “to surface” the currently fashionable word for “to bring”?)
They didn't say they're committed to optimizing it for the viewer. If you assume they're optimizing it for Google — specifically, their revenue — and their sponsors, then those statements are completely compatible.
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@TimeBandit said in Internet of shit:
I was listening to a French guy on the radio, and he said something 3 times before I was able to understand he was saying, because he used the English expression but pronouced it the worst possible French way. And I speak both language.
He was saying "Prime time"
Insert La Cité de la Peur's "Serial Killer♪" scene here.
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@Medinoc:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt_IalOQrJwShould be somewhat understandable even for people who don't speak French.
(interestingly, the YouTube automatic subtitle generator doesn't get the "serial killer" part except when the character deliberately pronounces it with a French accent. I guess YouTube's French emulation is spot-on.)
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@TimeBandit Where is Wonko The Sane when the world needs him?
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@Bulb Outside the asylum, I must assume.
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@Bulb said in Internet of shit:
@TimeBandit Where is Wonko The Sane when the world needs him?
Those fucking mugs. I had such high hopes for that thing. But no, it bricked itself immediately.
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@TimeBandit An ember mug. Is the firmware JS? Does the CPU overheating keep your beverage hot?
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@TimeBandit I like how it failed to perform the update.
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a company representative said. “What’s more, why you contact our customers for this thing which make them to receive this kind of boring mail. Why hacker contact you?”
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@TimeBandit said in Internet of shit:
@boomzilla said in Internet of shit:
The exact number will typically change during the day anyways, so you don't need to be super precise.
Canadian version:
You use Kelvin?
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TL;DR Introducing Google Nest, migrate to a Google account and go fuck yourself
What will happen to my Works with Nest connections if I migrate my Nest Account to Google?
If you are the owner of a Nest home (you can see your account status in your Nest app settings under Settings > Family), you must remove all your Works with Nest connections before you can migrate to a Google Account. Those connections will not be supported when you use a Google Account. When you migrate, we’ll give you an opportunity to review your Works with Nest connections and decide how you wish to proceed.
Important: If you decide to migrate to a Google Account, it will remove your Works with Nest connections and they will no longer work. This action is not reversible.
I don't know what most of that means because I refuse to learn anything about IoS, all I know is I want to strangle whoever came up with the "Works with Nest" name for what I'm guessing is an API. What I can piece together, however, is that the update breaks existing functionality and requires you to "migrate" all the fucking thermostats, cameras, lights, your mom's extensive collection of dildos, and whatever the fuck else people connect to the internet now because they're too lazy to press a physical button. Imagine paying orders of magnitude more for things that could have been very cheap, simple, and reliable devices, just to be told you need to "migrate" them when a giant corporation known for egregious invasions of privacy tells you to, and once you click the button there's no way out unless you rip out and replace all that shit. Imagine being the kind of person who lets someone do that to them. Jesus.
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It's a good thing. The more this kind of stuff happens, the more chance there is for people to be cured from the IoT craze.
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@Lorne-Kates said in Internet of shit:
The summed up version: Mr. Fahrenheit had a hardon for the whole "360 degree" thing that geometry had. If it had existed, he would have written flash-fic between him and the abstract concept of sine waves.
He's got a good hard
tippoint there. The sinus is¹ the sexiest function.¹ Those who disagree tend to prefer
abs(sin(x))+5*exp(-x**100)*cos(x)
[-3:3] but that's arguably an even worse foundation for a temperature scale.
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@LaoC said in Internet of shit:
abs(sin(x))+5*exp(-x**100)*cos(x)
[-3:3]Oh boo hoo I can't do graphs I don't know what this is
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Robot voodoo dolls!
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@Tsaukpaetra said in Internet of shit:
Robot voodoo dolls!
It can be extra fun if the robot is battery-powered and the needle goes thru it.
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@blek So they have an option which is basically "brick all my stuff, thanks to Google"? What happens if you don't migrate?
In the spirit of
@blek said in Internet of shit:
I refuse to learn anything about IoS
I can't be bothered to find out myself.
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@topspin said in Internet of shit:
@blek So they have an option which is basically "brick all my stuff, thanks to Google"? What happens if you don't migrate?
Current Nest devices will continue to work as they have.
The servers that make Works With Nest function are being turned off in August, if you happen to have anything that uses that system to control your Nest device(s).
Future Nest devices will only work with Google Accounts; third-parties who want to access them need to use the Google Smart Home/Works With Google Assistant system. (You may also be able to use that setup to access older devices whose users have migrated to a Google Account.)
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Good news
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I love modern websites...
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The things themselves sound pretty promising, buuuuut...
"Now I have the ability to connect things like iPhones and iPads for remote power management, which increases safety and improves efficiency of people trying to screw with the power remotely.”
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@boomzilla They seem to be mixing control and protection, which have widely different requirement. Electronic control is useful and reasonable. Electronic protection is not really possible, because even slightest risk that it won't open on overcurrent is not acceptable.
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@boomzilla said in Internet of shit:
3,000 times faster than the fastest mechanical breaker
Why? For household circuit breakers, at least, fast action is neither necessary nor desirable.
The purpose of a circuit breaker is, basically, to prevent fires. Electrical wiring has resistance, and as current flows through it, heat is generated. If more current flows than it is designed for, it may overheat and cause a fire.
However, 21 A through a 20 A circuit isn't going to cause it to suddenly burst into flame. Unless the overcurrent is extreme, like a lightning strike, it takes time for the wire to heat up.
This is good, because your household wiring carrying more current than it's rated for is commonplace in circuits with large motors — refrigerators, washing machines, air conditioners. If you plug a refrigerator rated at, say, 15 A into a 20 A circuit, everything's cool, right? Mostly. The motor draws 15 A when it's running, which is well below the 20 A the circuit is designed to supply. However, motors have a starting current that is much higher than their running current. That 15 A motor might draw 30 or 40 A for a second or two when it starts, dropping to 15 A as it gets up to speed.
You don't want your circuit breaker to trip every time your refrigerator or air conditioner decides things have gotten warm enough it needs to do it's thing, or your washing machine starts its spin cycle. A delay of a few seconds is usually the desired behavior for a circuit breaker.
GFCI protection is a different matter. That needs to be fast-acting. That may be built into the circuit breaker, but the ground fault protection and overcurrent protection need to have different response characteristics.
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@HardwareGeek said in Internet of shit:
If you plug a refrigerator rated at, say, 15 A into a 20 A circuit, everything's cool, right?
I would hope so. Why did I get the fridge for?
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@Zecc said in Internet of shit:
Why did I get the fridge for?
As emergency shelter in case of a nuclear blast?
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@Zecc said in Internet of shit:
@HardwareGeek said in Internet of shit:
If you plug a refrigerator rated at, say, 15 A into a 20 A circuit, everything's cool, right?
I would hope so. Why did I get the fridge for?
Sounds like what you really want is an air conditioner.
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@HardwareGeek said in Internet of shit:
If you plug a refrigerator rated at, say, 15 A into a 20 A circuit,
A 15A (1.6kW, presumably) refrigerator doesn't sound like a household appliance. I replaced mine recently, and the new one is only 110W.
As I understand any household device taking >1kW is usually a heating element, not a motor, and I don't believe heating elements have such high startup currents. It might apply to the vacuum though, and I think something similar applies to a gas stove's spark ignition (way higher than 16A current but only for a split second at a time)
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@PleegWat said in Internet of shit:
A 15A (1.6kW, presumably) refrigerator doesn't sound like a household appliance. I replaced mine recently, and the new one is only 110W.
I just looked at a few refrigerators online (and now I'll be bombarded with ads for the next few weeks, great), and most of the items don't specify the current rating (only the voltage (always 115 V) and estimated annual electricity use in kWH, and one didn't list any electrical information at all), but of the few that did, I saw ratings of 6 A, 15 A, and 20 A. But I just picked a number to illustrate the point, not because it was necessarily typical of refrigerators. Also, remember that your voltage is double ours, so for a given wattage, our current is double yours, although you did use the right voltage in your power calculation..
How big are refrigerators in Europe? Here, the amount of storage volume tends to be around 18–20 cubic feet, call it .5 cubic meters. If your refrigerators tend to be smaller, that could explain the lower power.
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@HardwareGeek Yeah, I only know because I bought a new kitchen recently, and rated wattages are deep down in the spec sheets. Which I've only got on paper.
And indeed, over here houses are 230V throughout, while you tend to have some 230V devices mixed with the 110V ones. It's also quite rare here to have any groups rated at anything other than 16A. Only electric cooking connections are heavier, and as I understand that's generally two linked 16A groups.
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@PleegWat Electric cooking is usually on 3-phase AC with an effective voltage of 400 V.
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@Rhywden said in Internet of shit:
Electric cooking is usually on 3-phase AC with an effective voltage of 400 V.
Not here it isn't.
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@Rhywden It is possible to have electric cooking on three-phase as well, but I get the impression that at least here the 'double 16A' is more common.
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@Rhywden said in Internet of shit:
@PleegWat Electric cooking is usually on 3-phase AC with an effective voltage of 400 V.
No. Induction cooking is usually 3-phase. “Electric” normally means simply electric heating element (even if under glass-ceramic top) and that was always single-phase using standard outlet.
Recently there are some induction stoves that also work with just single-phase.
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@Bulb Must be Germany-specific because my (and my parent's oven) are definitely not induction but 3-phase.