The Official Status Thread
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So is brand new or is it used? You can't blame us for coming to perfectly logical conclusions when you give us incorrect data. One might even say that your statement about having a brand new phone was a misdirection or even a lie. Someone was bound to say it.
Both. Sold as used, but the guy only unpacked it and put it up for sale. It was still in box and everything. I'm 90% sure it still had the protective peel-of plastic on it.
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So it was...brand used?
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I'm still unsure how the same method made my car about 2,000€ cheaper.
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I'm still unsure how the same method made my car about 2,000€ cheaper.
Ask your tax advisor and a lawyer specialized in brand contracts.
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I'm still unsure how the same method made my car about 2,000€ cheaper.
Perception. If a person sees a year old car for sale, they automatically assume something is wrong with it.
We usually buy cars that are ~3 years old, just so some other fellow can take the brunt of the depreciation.
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Also pre-registered* cars, which are essentially brand new but already have the dealer down as an owner. Used to bump sales to hit targets.
* term may differ internationally
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Similar concept, same outcome.
"There must be some reason they couldn't sell it."
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Status: Everyone in the house is sick, except for me. Looks like it is Sopa De Ajo for dinner.
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Everyone in the house is sock
...... I had wondered where @sockbot had wandered off to....
Spellar! - bz
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Yes mistress Sultanatrix of Swypos; @RaceProUK's queen, I shall appear as summoned.
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Everyone in the house is sock
Maybe you should talk to one of the sock drawer devs.
EDIT:
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@Polygeekery said:
Everyone in the house is sock
...... I had wondered where @sockbot had wandered off to....
LOL! The sock is on the other foot! I am sufficiently amused to grant you a badge.
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Pot, meet kettle.
@accalia shutup
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Pot, meet kettle.
Hello kettle!
@Polygeekery said:@accalia shutup
I'm sorry Polygeekery, but I cannot comply You are not authorized to give me direct orders. Please contact a member of the forum staff, or my owner, @RaceProUK, for assistance in this matter
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Similar concept, same outcome.
"There must be some reason they couldn't sell it."
A car that's a few months old and has been owned by not the dealer being sold vs a car that's actually brand new it's just already registered and sat on the forecourt rather than coming from the factory are different.
Someone shifting a car after a few months would make me wonder, a dealer selling a pre-registration would not.
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Doing something over and over again, expecting different results, is the definition of insanity.
SOP with Git.
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...... I had wondered where @sockbot had wandered off to....
Spellar! - bz
Well, it's time to shut down the forum and head home. @Accalia is now collecting spellar badges. @accalia!
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a dealer selling a pre-registration would not.
Well, it would let you know that the dealer bought too many or the manufacturer made too many. Either way, it is time to make a deal.
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Either way, it is time to make a deal.
Agreed. My point was just it's not a point for concern to get a pre-registered car.
That said, I'm just going to lease a brand new car next time, rather than the current tactic of buying a 3 year old ex-lease car.
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That said, I'm just going to lease a brand new car next time, rather than the current tactic of buying a 3 year old ex-lease car.
Why is that?
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What did he just install on Windows???
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@accalia said:
...... I had wondered where @sockbot had wandered off to....
Spellar! - bz
Well, it's time to shut down the forum and head home. @Accalia is now collecting spellar badges. @accalia!
:deep_bow:
I shall carry out my duty faitfhully and wtih caree
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Mandatory 9 hour days. Fuckthisshit
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:deep_bow:
I shall carry out my duty faitfhully and wtih caree
Well, that didn't last long.
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jsut porviding mysefl with plenty of examples of spellar and granning erorrs to point otu.
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3 year old cars are outside of the manufacturer's warranty, and then I do 24/25k a year after that, keeping the car for 2-3 years. Current car is 5 years old and has just passed 140k miles, which will be 160k by the time I look at replacing it. By then, it's just hoping something major doesn't fail.
The car I have now cost about $30k USD brand new (bought by me at just over 3 years old for roughly $16k) - for less money per month I can lease a car which costs about $64k brand new, and after the end of the 3 years just give it back and lease another. I'll have paid $28k over the 3 years. Couldn't sensibly afford the car brand new, and certainly wouldn't be selling it after 3 years still worth $36k.
Looking at used cars, I could get the same car 18 months old for $36k, but I'd end up either paying more per month or having it on a longer term.
Also, if I lease the next car I can sell the current car and put the money towards a house deposit with other money I'll have saved. Double win.TLDR: much better car, less money over all
It's not going to be happening until at least the middle of next year, so plenty of time to keep exploring options.
I'm 30 next year, and that's how I intend to mark it after the whole get-drunk-during-a-few-days-on-holiday shindig ends.
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Look at the total landed cost for that leased vehicle. You are in another country, so I cannot speak for the exact economics at play there, but here in the US leasing a car is the most expensive way to have a car when you account for all costs. The monthly payment is rarely a good indicator of actual cost.
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when you account for all costs
Other than leasing vs finance, the other costs (servicing, tyres, fuel etc) are the same. The lease on a brand new car is less than the equivalent finance on a used car, it's just the "catch" is that I don't own the car at the end, just give it back and start again at exactly the same point in time I'd be swapping the car if I owned it anyway.
Unless there's something I've missed? Like I said, it's months away, but if I missed something I naturally need to take it into account.
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it's just the "catch" is that I don't own the car at the end
Which is important as you can't apply the left over value of the car toward the next one (note: I drive things till junked so not super familiar with just how much you are giving up).
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Which is important as you can't apply the left over value of the car toward the next one
But I'm also not paying the full value of the car over the term. I'm not even paying half.
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it's just the "catch" is that I don't own the car at the end, just give it back and start again at exactly the same point in time I'd be swapping the car if I owned it anyway.
Well...that is a pretty big catch. You will always have a lease payment, and you can do nothing to get ahead on that. You never have a "trade-in", you never build equity and you always have a payment. I am fairly anti-debt, so that is where I speak from. We tend to buy ~3 year old cars and keep them for a long time and when we do buy cars, we pay for them upfront.
140K is really not that bad for a modern vehicle. The vehicle that I drive has 160K on it, and it would not bother me a bit to hop in it and drive to California (although I am not insane, and would much rather fly).
My wife's car has more miles than that and it is rock-solid dependable, especially so considering it is a Chrysler product...
Pay your car off, take the car payment you have previously been making and put it in a savings account. In no time your saved cash plus your trade-in will net you a very nice car to drive and you will still not have a car payment.
Another benefit of that: If you pay cash, you won't look at those $65K vehicles, even if you can afford them. Writing a check that big hurts, and will make you realize that you don't need a vehicle that expensive.
To each their own though. At least you are thinking about how your money is spent. You are already ahead of 99% of the population out there. There is no one "right way", do what works best for you.
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Status: Performance problem scanning a directory tree used as intermediate data structure. Analysis suggests the actual directory scan is the expensive part - lots of subdirectories. Going to try replacing it with a custom archive format.
Unless anyone has good standard suggestions? One producer, one consumer, not concurrent, I'm generating the data as I'm writing it so I don't know the file sizes ahead of time and the read side needs the files in a different order than the write side generates them.
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Well...that is a pretty big catch
Yeah but I'm also paying less than half the cost of the car, rather than more than the value of the car At the moment, I can cope with one offsetting the other.
You never have a "trade-in", you never build equity and you always have a payment.
True, but I switch at most every 3 years (the previous car was 18 months but that's a different story) with some of the value being on 2/3 years finance.
I am fairly anti-debt
Me too, on anything that's not a house or a decent car.
If you pay cash, you won't look at those $65K vehicles, even if you can afford them. Writing a check that big hurts, and will make you realize that you don't need a vehicle that expensive.
I'll not be paying cash for the whole amount in any case. At least some of it would be on finance. I'd just end up looking at a used $40k car instead, and paying more over the same term.
While I could save a lot more than I do now, I just simply don't. Yeah yeah, I know.140K is really not that bad for a modern vehicle. The vehicle that I drive has 160K on it
I guess I got burned with my last car, which had catastrophic engine failure at 183k. Then after $5k for a replacement engine, just developed problem after problem before I gave up. It was French rather than German, but still.
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But I'm also not paying the full value of the car over the term. I'm not even paying half.
My wife and I are both due for vehicles. Here is basically what I am going to be buying:
$33K, 15K miles. New, they are ~$60-65K. You, in theory, can buy one for $48K, but they rarely have any of those models on the lot. They make a few so that they can say "Starting at..." I will drive it for 5-10 years and trade it in. If I had a 8 year old FX35 to trade in on it (buying 3 years old and keeping for 5 years), it would get me ~$12K. (yeah, yeah, yeah, dealer trade-in is less. Blah blah blah. Back of the napkin here folks.)
So, $33K - $12K is 21K. I can drive an FX35 for $4200/year in depreciation. That is $350/month, for a very nice vehicle. If I had bought the same vehicle new, I would have had that much depreciation in the first 2-3 years.
If you can pay a car off, and save up for your next purchase, you have no finance costs to figure in and in fact you will probably earn a little bit of money as you save for the next car. You also have money in the bank in case life goes sideways, and less risk as you are not holding car debt.
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If you can pay a car off, and save up for your next purchase, you have no finance costs to figure in and in fact you will probably earn a little bit of money as you save for the next car.
I can't save lots while doing everything from a single income unless I stick with the current car for longer than I'd like and risk something big going wrong. Especially as I need a functioning car.
It's definitely some more things to think about though, so thanks.
edit: The FX35 is nice though.
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This is the first time in my life I've heard of a phone shipping with a screen protector already installed. So it's not something I would have guessed.
It happens. My son's HTC One had one, although it had printing on it; it was intended to protect the device only during shipping. I've had more than one phone come with something like that.
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I'm still unsure how the same method made my car about 2,000€ cheaper.
It's all status games. The answer is "duh, because they can't call it new any more. Even with only 1 mile on the odometer, it's a used car now."
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We usually buy cars that are ~3 years old, just so some other fellow can take the brunt of the depreciation.
The way I've always heard it told semi-jokingly is that the act of driving it off the lot causes a car to lose 30% of its value.
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140K is really not that bad for a modern vehicle
Indeed. My last car was a '95 Ford Escort I bought a year old with 22K miles on it. It developed a slight transmission fluid leak around 200K miles. At 247K the transmission finally died, but only because I had forgotten to top the fluid level off, so I junked the car. But without that mistake I am pretty confident I could've gotten another 50K miles or maybe much more on it--the only recurring problem it had was that every 80K (or so; I replaced it 3 times, and I bought the car in 1996 and got rid of it in 2008) miles or so it would eat the driver's-side half-axle, which would have to be replaced.
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All-in-all, my investment account is down 1.94%. Suxxx. Of course I have to wait until market close to see how my mutuals did, it's probably even worse.
Disclaimer: I don't know much about stocks and shares. This may be come apparent in the next couple of sentences...
Stocks and shares are something that you buy and sell. If you're a buyer and the price goes down then surely that is a good thing - I want the things I buy to be cheaper.
It seems to me that the only way that lower share prices is a bad thing for investors is (a) if you have to sell; or (b) if the price never goes back up again.
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Me too, on anything that's not a house or a decent car.
If I start to sound preachy, tell me to STFU. I will not take it personally. Promise.
Cars are the largest "investment" that we routinely make that we lose money on. Unless you are buying cars on speculation that they will go up in value, you will lose money. So, it is best to mitigate that loss as much as we feel comfortable with. A lease is just pure loss. It is a long-term rental.
While I could save a lot more than I do now, I just simply don't. Yeah yeah, I know.
That goes for every person in existence. Everyone could save more money, except Scrooge McDuck. Life is all about balance. If you save every penny possible, you won't have any money for fun, and then what the hell is the point of the money in the first place?
I guess I got burned with my last car, which had catastrophic engine failure at 183k. Then after $5k for a replacement engine, just developed problem after problem before I gave up. It was French rather than German, but still.
Everyone's experience is different. I drive a Lexus (overpriced Toyota 4Runner) and they have a great reputation for reliability. I also have a 2000 Silverado that has nearly 200K on the odometer and the only thing I have ever done to it was a battery, a water pump and two rear differentials (roughly 10 miles apart, long story). The engine is still completely reliable. My wife drives a Jeep Grand Cherokee (overpriced Jeep, designed by MB) that has been amazingly reliable also. We have pretty good luck with vehicles, but we don't buy French. ;)
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Disclaimer: I don't know much about stocks and shares. This may be come apparent in the next couple of sentences...
Hmmmm....
Stocks and shares are something that you buy and sell. If you're a buyer and the price goes down then surely that is a good thing - I want the things I buy to be cheaper.
Well...let's see where you are going with this...
It seems to me that the only way that lower share prices is a bad thing for investors is (a) if you have to sell; or (b) if the price never goes back up again.
You have a better handle on the situation than you think. More millionaires are made during depressions than there are through boom times. Dollar cost averaging works in your favor when prices go down...as long as they come back up.
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If I start to sound preachy, tell me to STFU. I will not take it personally. Promise.
S'cool. It's actually given me the nudge to check out other options in more detail sooner.
we don't buy French.
Wise move. French cars were better when everything was more mechanical and had a low pressure fuel system. They don't excel when it comes to lots of electronics and high pressure fuel systems (some of these engines are also used by Ford, and by BMW in the Mini).
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It's actually given me the nudge to check out other options in more detail sooner.
Another thing to look at is rental places. Their cars tend to be higher mileage but only a few years old when they swap out and they are better about maintenance then the normal used car.
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The place I got the current car from was a dealer who were the sister company of a lease company so they sold all of the lease company's ex-lease cars, max 3ish years old, all maintained exactly as per manufacturer's specification.
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I ended up down 4.42%. NASDAQ (which I use as my personal reference point) was down 3.82%. So I did not beat the averages. Suck.
Put another way, I lost every cent I made since February.
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I ended up down 4.42%. NASDAQ (which I use as my personal reference point) was down 3.82%. So I did not beat the averages. Suck.
Put another way, I lost every cent I made since February.
This is what I don't get... the whole idea of "losing" and "gaining". You didn't make anything in February (because you didn't sell) and you haven't lost anything now (unless you sell).
At the moment you just have some shares that you paid money for. If you are part of a plan that buys shares each month then this month you're going to get more shares than during February when (presumably) prices were higher. This, for you, is a good thing unless you need to sell or the price doesn't go up. (And, in the past, the price has always gone up.)
I enjoyed this: http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/18693884-how-not-to-be-wrong
There's a bit in there about managed funds and reversion to the mean which I found interesting.
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This is what I don't get... the whole idea of "losing" and "gaining". You didn't make anything in February (because you didn't sell) and you haven't lost anything now (unless you sell).
Oh fuck off, you pedantic dickweed, you know what I meant.
THE VALUE OF MY ACCOUNT YOU FUCKING ASHSOLES TEHRWEHUH ASDFGYUWERGUQW#A gr54yuq G I HAVE TO TALK LIKE A ROBOLT BECAUSE THIS FORUM IS FULL OF RETARDS IM GONNA GRAB NBEER
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I feel like we are back in the screen protector discussion, except you are on the other side of the conversation.
