Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.



  • @PleegWat said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @Magus Might be tricky to ship though?

    Heh. Anime fans can ship anything. :P


  • area_deu

    @blakeyrat said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @akko The French call tanks "Char", their word for chariot.

    Surprisingly, for once the French name for something sounds less strange than the German name XD



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I wanted to show further work on the hull, but @remi asked about tracks, so let's go with that.

    Oh wow. I was idly wondering about how it'd work and thought that one way could be to have all links done one by one, and I immediately dismissed this as much too labour-intensive. But I was wrong, this is exactly how you do it! I am very impressed, this is a lot of work...



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    It took me over 4 hours to glue all link halves. Rounding the hinges should take about 3 more. Teeth are tricky, I don't know how long that will take, I must find a way to work quicker with them.

    Fucking hell, and to think I already have a mild dislike for single-link tracks on plastic models, where all you usually need to do is remove them from the sprue and clean them up a bit …



  • @blakeyrat said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Old WWI tanks are all based on agricultural tractors, so they usually don't have very elaborate ones. That Whippet for example seems to just have sheet metal ridges.

    Plop plop plop. The tracks on WWI tanks were an original design by Tritton and Wilson for the No. 1 Lincoln Machine, AKA Little Willie when it turned out the agricultural track units they had adapted for it, weren’t suited to battlefield conditions. Plop plop plop. The same basic design was used on all subsequent British tanks of the First World War, and consisted of two metal chains to which simple plates with a bulge at one end were riveted. Plop plop plop. The bulge is there principally to cover the gap between links yet allow articulation, but also served to increased traction. Plop plop plop.


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    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Oh wow. I was idly wondering about how it'd work and thought that one way could be to have all links done one by one, and I immediately dismissed this as much too labour-intensive. But I was wrong, this is exactly how you do it! I am very impressed, this is a lot of work...

    Hehe, don't dismiss a solution just because it's ridiculously slow and labour intensive :D

    But jokes aside, this is not the most labour intensive way. Designing tracks on your own, with links consisting of 10-15 parts each - that's the preferred way of really mad.

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Fucking hell, and to think I already have a mild dislike for single-link tracks on plastic models, where all you usually need to do is remove them from the sprue and clean them up a bit …

    Doing something precise, yet simple, repeatedly for hours is very relaxing. At least for me.
    Beer and music also help of course.



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Doing something precise, yet simple, repeatedly for hours is very relaxing. At least for me.

    Whereas the running gear of tank kits is the bit I usually like least because of all the identical parts — but doable because I can see progress (“Only half a sprue left … we’re getting there”).

    Beer and music also help of course.

    You still glue them straight after drinking beer for four hours? :)


  • ♿ (Parody)

    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I wanted to show further work on the hull, but @remi asked about tracks, so let's go with that.

    Oh wow. I was idly wondering about how it'd work and thought that one way could be to have all links done one by one, and I immediately dismissed this as much too labour-intensive. But I was wrong, this is exactly how you do it! I am very impressed, this is a lot of work...

    I do not have the patience for this hobby and I stare agape in amazement at anyone who does.



  • @MrL said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Oh wow. I was idly wondering about how it'd work and thought that one way could be to have all links done one by one, and I immediately dismissed this as much too labour-intensive. But I was wrong, this is exactly how you do it! I am very impressed, this is a lot of work...

    Hehe, don't dismiss a solution just because it's ridiculously slow and labour intensive :D

    After all, childbirth is usually slow and very labor intensive! :eek:

    But jokes aside, this is not the most labour intensive way. Designing tracks on your own, with links consisting of 10-15 parts each - that's the preferred way of really mad.

    [...]

    Doing something precise, yet simple, repeatedly for hours is very relaxing. At least for me.

    I think the slowest, most repetitive project I've ever worked on was when I bought a thousand 1.25" keyrings and linked them all together to form a chainmail shirt as a Christmas present for one of my brothers.



  • @djls45 I did that in college, but with wire, needle-nose pliers, and tin-snips.

    Keyrings is cheating.


  • Discourse touched me in a no-no place

    @boomzilla said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I do not have the patience for this hobby and I stare agape in amazement at anyone who does.

    Do you feel the same way about forum moderation? 🙊


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    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Beer and music also help of course.

    You still glue them straight after drinking beer for four hours? :)

    One beer takes off the edge, second is just for pleasure. There is no third if you want to continue working on a model :)
    Plus I rarely have 4 hours for it, it's more like 4x1h.

    @boomzilla said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I do not have the patience for this hobby and I stare agape in amazement at anyone who does.

    I have many flaws, but lack of patience is not one of them.
    Tracks and suspension on tanks look exhausting (and they are), but you can always choose an aircraft - almost no repeating parts.

    Anyway, tracks are coming along slooowly. So tomorrow I think I'll post something about the hull.


  • ♿ (Parody)

    @doctorjones said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @boomzilla said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I do not have the patience for this hobby and I stare agape in amazement at anyone who does.

    Do you feel the same way about forum moderation? 🙊

    Nah. Forum moderation is easy. There's almost nothing to do.


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    I got caught up in doing nothing, so I didn't have time to post an update, sorry. As the tracks are going painfully slow, I'll show some work on the hull.

    There was a picture with one side of the sheathing glued to the skeleton - next thing is of course the second side and bottom:

    0_1518878962163_IMG-20161128-WA0002.jpg

    In front and back of the bottom part, there were some 'flaps' for connecting next parts. I cut them away and added some carbon paper. Why? Gluing flaps are an extension of model's part, so when using them you glue one part on top of the other, which creates a not so great looking seam. I don't know if I'm explaining this clearly, so I made a drawing (in MS Paint of course):

    0_1518880418635_Flaps.png

    Why carbon paper? It's thin and elastic, but strong.

    Next came the rounded front:

    0_1518880535706_WP_20161128_22_46_13_Rich.jpg 0_1518880549138_WP_20161128_22_46_00_Rich.jpg

    Seams look ok, but you can see that top of this part is a little wavy. That's not a problem fortunately, because this region will be covered by front armor plate.

    On to the back wall of the hull:

    0_1518880701564_WP_20161128_22_46_33_Rich.jpg
    0_1518880728780_WP_20161128_22_46_22_Rich.jpg

    Seams on the back are not perfect, but they won't be visible :)

    And finally, top of the hull. I got thirsty working on that:

    0_1518880897530_WP_20161129_00_48_57_Rich.jpg
    0_1518880962614_WP_20161129_01_32_28_Rich.jpg
    0_1518881027303_WP_20161129_01_32_42_Rich.jpg 0_1518881067777_WP_20161129_01_32_47_Rich.jpg

    In upcoming posts: fenders, wheels and suspension :)


  • BINNED

    @mrl

    -1 for your choice of beer

    :wtf: is a 🇧🇪 IPA ... searching for it returns almost no 🇧🇪 🍺 except for some special and limited editions.

    Anyway ... throw away the 🇵🇱 crap and get a real 🇧🇪 🍺 lad


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    @luhmann said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl

    -1 for your choice of beer

    :wtf: is a 🇧🇪 IPA ... searching for it returns almost no 🇧🇪 🍺 except for some special and limited editions.

    Anyway ... throw away the 🇵🇱 crap and get a real 🇧🇪 🍺 lad

    🇧🇪 IPA is IPA made on 🇧🇪 yeast. And why -1 if you haven't tried it?

    There is a real explosion of craft breweries in 🇵🇱 in recent years. They experiment with new things a lot and this is one of them. Before that all you could buy was 500 brands of lager, produced on massive scale, all tasting the same (having no taste at all, some would argue) :vomit:


  • BINNED

    @mrl
    It's no true 🇧🇪 🍺 ... so it starts at -1
    Uh yeah, around here it has always been more then lagers and pilsner. Triple and geuze have always around.


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    @luhmann said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl
    It's no true 🇧🇪 🍺 ... so it starts at -1

    Meh, I don't care about no true anything. If it tastes good it's good. And if something is the only original 500 year old traditional something, which tastes like shit, it's shit.



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    First you cut them all out:

    Cut from normal paper or do they pop out on their own?


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    @coldandtired said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    First you cut them all out:

    Cut from normal paper or do they pop out on their own?

    Those that come with the model are just printed on paper. Those from laser kits are held in place with small bits of uncut paper.

    0_1518973131542_TracksExample.jpg



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I got thirsty working on that:

    A Pole putting a Belgian beer next to a Nazi tank. I guess next the tank will overthrow the bottle and cut yourself with it, that would be historically accurate?

    Also, you clearly take a lot of care about gluing and seams, do you ever have issues about the layer of glue itself being too thick? And conversely, do you ever have to go back to re-glue small bits that you did not do properly?



  • @blakeyrat said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    The part of the tank assembly that leaves a tread.

    What you have pictured there are rubber pads attached to the tracks and used for transport on paved surfaces so they don't tear up the surface.

    @blakeyrat said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Old WWI tanks are all based on agricultural tractors, so they usually don't have very elaborate ones. That Whippet for example seems to just have sheet metal ridges.

    Those ridges on a track that give traction are called cleats, or apparently grousers. TIL.


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    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    A Pole putting a Belgian beer next to a Nazi tank. I guess next the tank will overthrow the bottle and cut yourself with it, that would be historically accurate?

    I should get hurt first, then the bottle, plus some russian tank should stab me in my back, but generally yeah.

    Also, you clearly take a lot of care about gluing and seams,

    Seams are very important :) Look at pictures of an aircraft from my first post - that's the level I want to achieve someday.

    do you ever have issues about the layer of glue itself being too thick?

    I use a very thin, watery glue, which soaks in. It has no thickness to speak of.
    (it's called Brand Clear Glue, dunno if it's international product name)

    But it sometimes is an issue when making skeleton, as BCG is not the best pick for gluing big flat surfaces.
    Skeleton is 0.1mm paper that comes with the model + 1mm cardboard + ?mm glue. So it can make a pretty big difference.

    And conversely, do you ever have to go back to re-glue small bits that you did not do properly?

    With paper you usually can't take apart anything after gluing. So you have one shot with every part :D
    Well not every part, sometimes it's possible to rip something off without destroying it, and sometimes you can make a duplicate of something destroyed. It's what make this slow and calm hobby exciting for me - one mistake and months of work go to trash.

    I threw out more models than I ever completed, with an asspull ratio of 2:1.



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    With paper you usually can't take apart anything after gluing. So you have one shot with every part

    I was more thinking about bits that are glued with very small contact area, and/or where you did not put enough glue the first time (so they might hold when you assemble them because of a tiny amount of glue, but break apart when you manipulate the thing later).

    I guess what you said about the glue itself (thin, watery, soaks in) means this should not really be an issue...


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    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    With paper you usually can't take apart anything after gluing. So you have one shot with every part

    I was more thinking about bits that are glued with very small contact area, and/or where you did not put enough glue the first time (so they might hold when you assemble them because of a tiny amount of glue, but break apart when you manipulate the thing later).

    I guess what you said about the glue itself (thin, watery, soaks in) means this should not really be an issue...

    Yeah, with this glue it's not an issue, but sometimes I use something else and it happens. It happened when I worked of fenders for this tank for example, will show it sometime soon.



  • @another_sam said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    What you have pictured there are rubber pads attached to the tracks and used for transport on paved surfaces so they don't tear up the surface.

    And to reduce noise on those same paved surfaces. Both at the cost of less traction in soft soil, though.

    Those ridges on a track that give traction are called cleats, or apparently grousers. TIL.

    Grousers are separate devices that attach to the track for added traction. You can see them in some photos of Whippets, hanging from rails attached to the superstructure:

    The three blocks above the track, just to the left of the exhaust pipe, are grousers. Similar devices also appear on many WWII American tanks and other tracked vehicles, usually attached to the turret or hull when they’re not in use.



  • @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Both at the cost of less traction in soft soil, though.

    This is true, but the rubber pads aren't used when traction really counts, e.g. in battle. At least, according to the ex-Army guy I talked to about it 20 years ago... things may have changed. My own experience is in tracked excavations equipment, where used tyres are thrown on the paved surface between the excavation side and the float transport. No pads, just cleats, integral part of the links.



  • @another_sam said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    This is true, but the rubber pads aren't used when traction really counts, e.g. in battle. At least, according to the ex-Army guy I talked to about it 20 years ago...

    I suspect either you or him of having faulty sectors in his memory :) Track pads on American and German tank tracks have been removable since about the 1960s, IIRC partially to allow better traction cross-country, but mainly to replace worn-out ones without having to replace the whole link when the steel bits were still OK. Good luck finding any photos of, say, M60s or M1s driving around with no pads on the tracks. Photos of Leopards like that are slightly more common, since most variants have ice grousers/cleats that can be put in place of a small number of rubber blocks in winter conditions, but even that’s a fairly rare thing to do.

    things may have changed. My own experience is in tracked excavations equipment, where used tyres are thrown on the paved surface between the excavation side and the float transport. No pads, just cleats, integral part of the links.

    Many tank tracks are — or used to be — much the same, but rubber-padded tracks have prevailed almost everywhere because of the lesser road damage and noise. You can’t expect excavators to travel long distances on roads, but tanks are capable of it (even if a tank transporter is the preferred choice, to avoid wear on the tank and the road — mainly the former).



  • @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Good luck finding any photos of, say, M60s or M1s driving around with no pads on the tracks

    I was going to say that the Australian Army don't have any of them, but blow me down, we have a handful of M1A1s. The Army guy was probably talking about Leopards, but I think you're right about his (or my) memory. Here's a picture of one with rubber all over the tracks and grousers on the front of the hull:


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    @another_sam said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Good luck finding any photos of, say, M60s or M1s driving around with no pads on the tracks

    I was going to say that the Australian Army don't have any of them, but blow me down, we have a handful of M1A1s. The Army guy was probably talking about Leopards, but I think you're right about his (or my) memory. Here's a picture of one with rubber all over the tracks and grousers on the front of the hull:

    This camo is awesome.


  • Fake News

    @another_sam said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    This camo is awesome.

    Is it meant to look like a JPEG artifact when photographed by reconnaissance airplanes?



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Those from laser kits are held in place with small bits of uncut paper.

    At least that's not too bad.

    My mum bought my son an X-wing model a couple of years ago. These are the instructions concerning R2-D2

    0_1519302587083_WP_20180221_13_03_17_Pro.jpg

    and this is him (it?) in plastic, with a credit card-sized thing for scale

    0_1519302614177_WP_20180221_13_06_29_Pro.jpg


  • Discourse touched me in a no-no place

    @coldandtired said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Those from laser kits are held in place with small bits of uncut paper.

    At least that's not too bad.

    My mum bought my son an X-wing model a couple of years ago. These are the instructions concerning R2-D2

    0_1519302587083_WP_20180221_13_03_17_Pro.jpg

    and this is him (it?) in plastic, with a credit card-sized thing for scale

    0_1519302614177_WP_20180221_13_06_29_Pro.jpg

    It'll be fine, kids have small hands



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    This camo is awesome.

    If you go to war in Minecraft, yes



  • @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    This camo is awesome.

    It’s a modern variant of Dual-Tex-camouflage that the US Army’s 2nd Armored Cavalry Regiment used from 1978 until the late ’80s, but applied somewhat more neatly than with the sponges used back then. (Interesting reading about the development of that pattern here, if camo is your thing.)

    @jbert said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Is it meant to look like a JPEG artifact when photographed by reconnaissance airplanes?

    Patterns like this one are known as “digital camouflage” but most people misunderstand the term and think it’s synonymous with “pixelated” or “squared-off blobs." In fact it means camouflage that has both a macro and a micro pattern, so it works from a distance and at close(r) range. This, for example, is also digital camouflage, even if most people wouldn’t think it is:

    (That’s a photo of Bundeswehr Flecktarn camouflage used on combat uniforms.)

    The way it works is that from a distance, the smaller blobs appear to merge into large ones, while up close you can tell them apart. This is necessary because from a distance, natural shapes are also seen as large blobs, but up close they have fine detail. This means that camouflage with large areas of colour works when viewed from a distance, but not from closer ranges, whereas camouflage with lots of small shapes works from up close but becomes a kind of one overall, average colour from a distance.

    Digital camouflage attempts to do both by constructing the large shapes from small ones and/or by breaking up the outlines of the large shapes.

    It must also be said that a lot of the supposedly digital camouflage you see nowadays (every army that likes to think of itself as modern seems to be using pixelated patterns in recent years) looks like it doesn’t actually follow that basic principle. More like, “squared blobs are good camouflage!” without understanding the reason why the blobs were square on Dual-Tex.



  • 0_1519340745203_IMG_4433.jpg

    0_1519340691106_mark_iv_male_tank_WWI.jpg

    Mark IVs (and siblings) used an "unditching beam" which could be chained to the track and usually was stored across the rear deck when not in use.



  • @blakeyrat said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Mark IVs (and siblings) used an "unditching beam" which could be chained to the track and usually was stored across the rear deck when not in use.

    That’s what the rails along the top are for, in fact: guidance for that beam. Note that the model in the photo you posted also has grousers bolted to its tracks.



  • I went to a model show today, where I saw these, that made me think of this thread, so I took a few pictures:

    0_1519496187015_IMG_1754.jpg

    Not pre-printed paper, but all the parts drawn by the guy who built the models. And if an armoured bulldozer of (at a rough guess) 30 cm long and 20 cm high isn’t impressive enough, how about a steam locomotive:

    0_1519496342942_IMG_1752.jpg

    With examples of parts at the bottom. The railway gun at the left of the photo is also scratch-built from paper.



  • @gurth Took me awhile, but I'm 85% sure it's an Allegheny.


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    @coldandtired said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    At least that's not too bad.

    My mum bought my son an X-wing model a couple of years ago. These are the instructions concerning R2-D2

    0_1519302587083_WP_20180221_13_03_17_Pro.jpg

    and this is him (it?) in plastic, with a credit card-sized thing for scale

    0_1519302614177_WP_20180221_13_06_29_Pro.jpg

    That seems doable. But not for a child :)

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    [...] if camo is your thing.)

    Not really, I have approximately zero knowledge about it. I just like some of them and thing the rest is dull.

    The way it works is that from a distance, the smaller blobs appear to merge into large ones, while up close you can tell them apart. This is necessary because from a distance, natural shapes are also seen as large blobs, but up close they have fine detail. This means that camouflage with large areas of colour works when viewed from a distance, but not from closer ranges, whereas camouflage with lots of small shapes works from up close but becomes a kind of one overall, average colour from a distance.

    Digital camouflage attempts to do both by constructing the large shapes from small ones and/or by breaking up the outlines of the large shapes.

    It must also be said that a lot of the supposedly digital camouflage you see nowadays (every army that likes to think of itself as modern seems to be using pixelated patterns in recent years) looks like it doesn’t actually follow that basic principle. More like, “squared blobs are good camouflage!” without understanding the reason why the blobs were square on Dual-Tex.

    And now I know something about camo, TIL.

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    I went to a model show today, where I saw these, that made me think of this thread, so I took a few pictures:

    0_1519496187015_IMG_1754.jpg

    Fantastic!

    Designing my own models is well above my level ATM.

    Not pre-printed paper, but all the parts drawn by the guy who built the models. And if an armoured bulldozer of (at a rough guess) 30 cm long and 20 cm high isn’t impressive enough, how about a steam locomotive:

    0_1519496342942_IMG_1752.jpg

    With examples of parts at the bottom. The railway gun at the left of the photo is also scratch-built from paper.

    At first I thought it's K5 Leopold, but something didn't feel right, so I checked. It's Siegfried K (E), correct?
    Also, there's a Bergepanther on the left :)


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    I wrote something about fenders recently, so I'll show them now. But first a little bit about suspension.

    Driving wheels of this tank are suspended on a kind of forks* - there's a wheel on one end, axle in the middle. It can spin up and down on the axle and is pushed down by a feather spring*. In model those springs are made of strips of paper stacked on top of each other.

    I worked on them together with front wheel housings:

    0_1519504880679_IMG-20161208-WA0001.jpg

    Springs parts on the left, housing on top.

    Springs glued together:

    0_1519504939841_WP_20161217_20_52_49_Pro.jpg

    They look like shit. Too flat - I should've glued all their parts on 0.5mm cardboard first, I think. So I made new ones from thick paper:

    0_1519505147333_WP_20161219_21_48_59_Pro.jpg

    Much better. I'll have to paint them, but it should be easy.

    Now the fenders. This is what happens when you use shitty glue:

    0_1519505290655_WP_20161203_19_24_26_Rich.jpg

    Good thing that stains won't be visible and it was possible to correct this.

    Gluing was the easy part, forming those elements is very tricky. You have to bend 0.4mm thick paper (with glue in the middle) along a long straight line, twice. The element can't break or loose it's shape. After that you form the round endings.
    It went quite well I think:

    0_1519505941779_IMG-20161208-WA0003.jpg
    0_1519505950735_WP_20170618_17_22_32_Rich.jpg

    All that's left to do, is to attach them to the model:

    0_1519506030255_WP_20170620_20_51_59_Rich.jpg
    0_1519506043169_WP_20170625_15_41_03_Rich.jpg

    You can see front wheel housings under the fenders, and some parts for wheels - something for another post.


    * sometimes I'm not sure if I use correct technical terms in english



  • @blakeyrat Trains aren’t really my thing, but looking at the photos on the page you linked to, I’m pretty sure you’re right.

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    0_1519302614177_WP_20180221_13_06_29_Pro.jpg

    That seems doable. But not for a child :)

    I beg to differ. I was building Matchbox kits of aircraft and tanks with parts smaller than that when I was 7 or 8 years old — using a surgical scalpel as a modelling knife. And yes, I still have all my fingers, and they’re all complete :)

    [...] if camo is your thing.)

    Not really, I have approximately zero knowledge about it. I just like some of them and thing the rest is dull.

    It’s more of a concern if you build plastic kits than paper ones, I admit.

    Designing my own models is well above my level ATM.

    I can scratchbuild major parts of tanks etc. in plastic if I have/want to, but I wouldn’t try things like running gear, engines, and similar complicated parts, let alone entire softskin vehicles.

    The railway gun at the left of the photo is also scratch-built from paper.

    At first I thought it's K5 Leopold, but something didn't feel right, so I checked. It's Siegfried K (E), correct?

    I’m not sure, as for various reasons I didn’t look that closely at it.

    Also, there's a Bergepanther on the left :)

    Yes, also scratchbuilt from paper, but painted. Oh, and the thing to the left of the Bergepanther is the tail end of a B-4 203-mm howitzer, again also from paper.



  • @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Trains aren’t really my thing, but looking at the photos on the page you linked to, I’m pretty sure you’re right.

    Well the display is labeled with a card but someone didn't bother photographing that. ;)

    It wasn't too hard to narrow down as there aren't many 2-6-6-? locomotives out there. The challenge was there's no way to see how many rear wheels there are from the photo.



  • @blakeyrat I did photograph it, as you can tell from the picture I posted ;) It’s not exactly readable even in the original, however. You can just count the number of rear axles, though, if you look closely — I make it six.



  • @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    0_1519496187015_IMG_1754.jpg

    Very impressive.

    What's with the weird scale, though? I mean, I can do the math and 1/23 is indeed very close to 1.5 x 1/35, but where are those numbers coming from? Any scale factor is as good as another (you might just decide to make something that fits into whatever stock of building materials you have and get the scale number from there), but why try to make a link between those two particular scale factors (1/23 and 1/35)?


  • area_deu

    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    0_1519496187015_IMG_1754.jpg

    Very impressive.

    What's with the weird scale, though? I mean, I can do the math and 1/23 is indeed very close to 1.5 x 1/35, but where are those numbers coming from? Any scale factor is as good as another (you might just decide to make something that fits into whatever stock of building materials you have and get the scale number from there), but why try to make a link between those two particular scale factors (1/23 and 1/35)?

    My guess would be that 1/35 is a popular scale and this is to make it easier for people to understand the size (aka "about half as big as my 1/35 models"). Not that I have any idea what scales are popular in the paper model community XD



  • @akko Makes sense. I'm not going to try and understand what scales model people use, I've read a couple of wikipedia articles on train models once and quickly went back to reading articles on matrix algebra, they are easier to follow. ;-)


  • Notification Spam Recipient

    @akko said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    0_1519496187015_IMG_1754.jpg

    Very impressive.

    What's with the weird scale, though? I mean, I can do the math and 1/23 is indeed very close to 1.5 x 1/35, but where are those numbers coming from? Any scale factor is as good as another (you might just decide to make something that fits into whatever stock of building materials you have and get the scale number from there), but why try to make a link between those two particular scale factors (1/23 and 1/35)?

    My guess would be that 1/35 is a popular scale and this is to make it easier for people to understand the size (aka "about half as big as my 1/35 models"). Not that I have any idea what scales are popular in the paper model community XD

    Standard scale for vehicles is 1/25. You can rarely encounter 1/18.
    For aircraft it's 1/33 or 1/32.
    For ships it's 1/200 (sometimes 1/100 for small things, 1/400 is rarely encountered).


  • area_deu

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @akko said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @remi said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @gurth said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    0_1519496187015_IMG_1754.jpg

    Very impressive.

    What's with the weird scale, though? I mean, I can do the math and 1/23 is indeed very close to 1.5 x 1/35, but where are those numbers coming from? Any scale factor is as good as another (you might just decide to make something that fits into whatever stock of building materials you have and get the scale number from there), but why try to make a link between those two particular scale factors (1/23 and 1/35)?

    My guess would be that 1/35 is a popular scale and this is to make it easier for people to understand the size (aka "about half as big as my 1/35 models"). Not that I have any idea what scales are popular in the paper model community XD

    Standard scale for vehicles is 1/25. You can rarely encounter 1/18.
    For aircraft it's 1/33 or 1/32.
    For ships it's 1/200 (sometimes 1/100 for small things, 1/400 is rarely encountered).

    Well then my theory doesn't seem to hold ^^. Anybody else have an explanation?


  • Notification Spam Recipient

    I checked in one of online stores I use - I wasn't precise:

    Vehicles: 1/25 very common, 1/18 and 1/32 rare.
    Rail vehicles: 1/25 and 1/45 common.
    Aircraft: 1/33 common, 1/50 rare.
    Ships: 1/100, 1/200, 1/300, 1/350, 1/400. 1/200 common.

    @akko said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    @mrl said in Why yes, I do have a hobby. Glad you asked.:

    Standard scale for vehicles is 1/25. You can rarely encounter 1/18.
    For aircraft it's 1/33 or 1/32.
    For ships it's 1/200 (sometimes 1/100 for small things, 1/400 is rarely encountered).

    Well then my theory doesn't seem to hold ^^. Anybody else have an explanation?

    When you design yourself you are not bound to any standards*. You can have a target size of the model or just go with what will be easier to calculate.


    * Those standards are all dictated by model size anyway. You can rescale printed model to something crazy like 1/19.7 if you want, some people do that.


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